When I began my wine journey in
2001, I knew that this was an art not unlike many other aesthetics. You have
the mainstream wine and the small, indie wines. You have the silly, but effective
politics—if you like White Zinfandel, you’re a ding bat incapable of
understanding the abstract subtleties of Old world wine. If you like Barolo,
you’re a wine sophisticate. While I was in sommelier school, it amazed me how
everything associated with American wine culture was considered big, audacious,
and in some cases, sloppy and unrefined. Who were these crass red, white and
blue people stomping unto our turf with their brazen ideas of making wine their
way? The other day a colleague and dear friend passed me a bottle of 2010 Macchia
Amorous Sangiovese from Lodi, California. When I think of Sangiovese, I think of
an entry-level Chianti that’s insipid, like someone is tightening a straight
jacket on your palate. I had an amazing Chianti experience at Cioppino
Restaurant with Jorge Mendoza—the sommelier. And if someone didn’t thief my
hand bag with my wine diary, I’d tell you about it, but as of today, Sangiovese
isn’t something I’d go out of my way to find. But what do I always say? Stay
open. I already knew that this wasn’t a straight jacket wine with all that lush
Lodi sunshine. But I wasn’t expecting blueberry heavy cream. This wine reminded
me more of Zinfandel. Blueberry and black currant jam aromas burst through a
gorgeous, purple violet color. On the palate, it’s more of the same—black cherry
jam and black pepper spice fold into the heavy cream body. And there are
medium-high tannins. I didn’t love it. It was too big. And I guess the
contradictor in me wanted even a bite of straight jacket-austerity. However,
when I chilled it and served it with spicy Jamaican curry chicken,
it was a perfect match. All that dark fruit sweetness and jammi-ness was made
for West Indian grilled and roasted meats that have hints or hot pepper spice.
So what’s my point? Lol I love that American winemakers are experimenting in
the grape lab, taking us out of our comfort zone and exploring the endless
possibilities. Where would we be if Hendrix didn’t put those electric guitar
strings in his mouth and show us what that instrument really could do? We’d be in straight jackets lol
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Rosé: Pink Cookies in a Plastic Bag Getting Crushed by Buildings
My first rosé epiphany happened
in Cognac, France, in 2007. I was gazing out into the fertile, green earth from
Chateau De L’Yeuse overwhelmed by the sheer majestic beauty of the environment,
grateful to God to be there. I was sipping the 1995 Veuve
Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé with a man who spoke the
language of wine so fluently, I was jealous. Before this moment, rosé was
Beringer white Zinfandel—flat, motionless and uninspired. But I was wrong. A rosé
can be just as interesting as a Champagne. The Veuve Du Vernay Brut Rosé
recalls the pleasures of summer—strawberries salads and blood orange mimosas,
summer sprinkles and duck pâté in
foreign countries with lovers who smell of Parisian pastry shops. Its color is redolent of a fall Miami sunset. It’s
refreshingly delicious and viciously romantic. And guess what else? It’s
been on sale at Whole Foods for $10, but the regular price is only $11,
so I say, go get some and download some old school LL Cool J while you're at it :).
Saturday, May 12, 2012
A Funky Mother’s Day Sandwich
I inherited my insatiable
passion for food and wine from my mama. My childhood was a dissonant melody of
pots clanging at 6 a.m., the morning, a salty mist of codfish creeping into my
room. But unlike many stalwart, Old World Jamaican cooks, my mother had an
adventurous palate. My elementary school lunch box was a gourmet playground of Italian
ham, Sicilian salami and sweet sopressata sandwiches. And my fromages choices
ranged from Sweet Munchee to Cracker Barrel Vermont Cheddar. These weren’t
viable stock options in the World of Lunch Box Trades as my classmates’ palates
were narcotized by generic peanut butter and jelly. But even then I knew what a
good sandwich felt like—the exquisite balance of texture and flavors, the expert
weaving of salty, sweet, savory accents. A well-made sandwich can heal wounds,
and my mother, the ultimate sandwich-sage, has made many sandwiches. These days,
I try to dazzle her with my amateur skills over a chilly glass of Manischewitz
Concord Grape wine, her fave. I’ve tried
to bring her over to my side—a decadent Sauternes or a yummy trockenbeerenauslese
and while she smiles politely at my attempt,
she loves Mani. Yesterday I made mama a
pre-Mother’s Day sandwich and served it with a deliciously funky French wine.
Hey. At least, I tried, right? lol
A
Funky Mother’s Day Sandwich
Ingredients:
French bread loaf
3 thin slices of Prosciutto di
Parma
2 thin slices of Jarlsberg
I scallion stalk, chopped
1 tablespoon of julienned sundried
tomatoes immersed in olive oil
1 egg, over medium
1 teaspoon of Mayonnaise
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
Preparation:
Fry eggs over medium
Season with salt, pepper and
scallion
Place egg on side plate
Tear a piece of French loaf (4
inches recommended)
Cut or tear open bread
Rub inside of bread inside pan
where you just fried egg
Spread mayonnaise on bread
Layer with prosciutto and Jarlsberg
Top with egg and sundried
tomatoes
Serve open faced
Yield: 1
Wine
Recommendation: 2009 Domaine De La Janasse Terre d’Argile Côtes
du Rhone Villages
Okay, you’re thinking sparkling
wine, an off-dry Riesling or even a yummy Rosé, BUT I friggin’ love this wine. The purple violet color explodes
with aromas of black cherry and spice bun followed by duck pâté
and wet leaves. On
the palate, the body of the wine is reminiscent of foie gras and the flavors of
black cherry, black plums and black pepper are a seamless journey into the southern
Rhone.
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